Upright bass transportation

[Boom]

Welp, when I told my wife I could add 2-3 gigs a month or more if I
bought an upright bass and learned a handful of jazz tunes, she gave
me the go-ahead to charge away our already maxed credit cards for an
upright. I could probably get away with a budget of $2000 for bass,
bow and pickup system, give or take $200. Ain't a lot, but it'll do.

So I'm looking to buy an acoustic upright instead of an EUB if I can
get away with it because I'm a man ( :P ), but I only have a midsize
car to haul it with. Can I fit at least a 3/4 size bass in a midsize
car? I want a full-size bass, but I would make do with 3/4 if it
won't fit. How do you guys with uprights and cars transport them?

[jeffb]

Post by Boom
Welp, when I told my wife I could add 2-3 gigs a month or more if I
bought an upright bass and learned a handful of jazz tunes, she gave
me the go-ahead to charge away our already maxed credit cards for an
upright. I could probably get away with a budget of $2000 for bass,
bow and pickup system, give or take $200. Ain't a lot, but it'll do.
So I'm looking to buy an acoustic upright instead of an EUB if I can
get away with it because I'm a man ( :P ), but I only have a midsize
car to haul it with. Can I fit at least a 3/4 size bass in a midsize
car? I want a full-size bass, but I would make do with 3/4 if it
won't fit. How do you guys with uprights and cars transport them?

Congrats man, I think you're gonna dig the upright a lot.

I've found the height between seat back and roof to be the real killer
getting them into a car. If the body clears the seat top then a mid
size should be fine length-wise. In other words don't worry too much.
The perfect sedan has removable (or no) headrests and a gap between
the driver an passenger front seats to drop the neck into.


jeffb
____________________________________________________________________________
"Take care of the luxuries and the necessities will take care of themselves"
-Dorothy Parker

[Boom]

Post by jeffb
Congrats man, I think you're gonna dig the upright a lot.

I will dig everything except the sore fingers the first couple weeks.
I've never owned one but I've played rentals on gigs before, and my
fingers felt like raw meat. Oh well, I got used to the washtub bass,
I'll get used to this.

Post by jeffb
I've found the height between seat back and roof to be the real killer
getting them into a car. If the body clears the seat top then a mid
size should be fine length-wise. In other words don't worry too much.
The perfect sedan has removable (or no) headrests and a gap between
the driver an passenger front seats to drop the neck into.

Guess I'll have to check that out before I buy it. I really want
full-size. But first I have to find a place in Orlando that sells
them.

Thanks Jeff.

[Todd H.]

Post by Boom
I will dig everything except the sore fingers the first couple
weeks.

Ah, reminds me of college.

[jeffb]

Post by Boom
Guess I'll have to check that out before I buy it. I really want
full-size. But first I have to find a place in Orlando that sells
them.

Full-size? You talkin' car or bass here?
If it's bass 3/4 size IS what most people play. A 4/4 size is harder
to find (especially in a laminated bass) and if you're using an amp
there's no need to wrestle with the extra size.

Teachers are often the best place to find a bass. A $20K+ carved bass
changing hands locally can trigger the sale of several basses as guys
sell theirs to move into a better one and everyone moves a rung up the
ladder.

If you have a little patience you can score something like an older
Kay or czech bass that will walk all over anything new in that price
range. These are nice too if you can lay some serious sweet-talk on
the wif: http://www.newstandardbass.com/index.htm


jeffb
____________________________________________________________________________
"Take care of the luxuries and the necessities will take care of themselves"
-Dorothy Parker

[Boom]

Post by jeffb
Full-size? You talkin' car or bass here?

Lol...bass.

Post by jeffb
If it's bass 3/4 size IS what most people play. A 4/4 size is harder
to find (especially in a laminated bass) and if you're using an amp
there's no need to wrestle with the extra size.

OK, I did want a 3/4 size or slightly smaller if it won't fit in the
car.

Post by jeffb
Teachers are often the best place to find a bass. A $20K+ carved bass
changing hands locally can trigger the sale of several basses as guys
sell theirs to move into a better one and everyone moves a rung up the
ladder.
If you have a little patience you can score something like an older
Kay or czech bass that will walk all over anything new in that price
range. These are nice too if you can lay some serious sweet-talk on
the wif: http://www.newstandardbass.com/index.htm

Nice basses, but that's a lot of money for someone who just wants to
pick up a couple extra gigs a month. I really don't think I need
something that good. And I couldn't sweet-talk my wife into one of
them if I told her Mel Gibson would do a threesome with us.

[Michael Bradley-Robbins]

Get a jeep, man. Also, stay away from laminated basses. it's basically
plywood with a veneer, and the tone will sound like crap in a few years. Get
solid wood ones, with a good bow (don't go cheap), and don't underestimate a
normal mike system. About the gigs, you will always get the gig if you get
good enough, as there are less UB players around, as opposed to BG players.
If you can get hired for gigs, the bass will just about pay for itself in a
while.

Post by Boom
Welp, when I told my wife I could add 2-3 gigs a month or more if I
bought an upright bass and learned a handful of jazz tunes, she gave
me the go-ahead to charge away our already maxed credit cards for an
upright. I could probably get away with a budget of $2000 for bass,
bow and pickup system, give or take $200. Ain't a lot, but it'll do.
So I'm looking to buy an acoustic upright instead of an EUB if I can
get away with it because I'm a man ( :P ), but I only have a midsize
car to haul it with. Can I fit at least a 3/4 size bass in a midsize
car? I want a full-size bass, but I would make do with 3/4 if it
won't fit. How do you guys with uprights and cars transport them?

[Boom]

On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 21:19:09 -0800, "Michael Bradley-Robbins"

Post by Michael Bradley-Robbins
Get a jeep, man.

LOL...no way! Gonna run that Intrepid until it drops. I only have a
year's worth of payments left.

Post by Michael Bradley-Robbins
Also, stay away from laminated basses. it's basically
plywood with a veneer, and the tone will sound like crap in a few years. Get

Kays are laminated and they sound good. But I'm going to get what I
can afford. Maybe I'll luck out and find a good cheap solid one, but
I think I'll probably end up getting a laminated one on my budget.

Post by Michael Bradley-Robbins
solid wood ones, with a good bow (don't go cheap),

What's a good bow go for?

Post by Michael Bradley-Robbins
and don't underestimate a normal mike system.

Impractical in the gigs I'll be doing. Maybe if I was using a PA on
all the gigs, I'd do that, but I'll be doing a lot of stuff where
we'll just be playing in the corner of some corporate dinner or hotel
bar and won't even have a PA.

Post by Michael Bradley-Robbins
About the gigs, you will always get the gig if you get
good enough, as there are less UB players around, as opposed to BG players.
If you can get hired for gigs, the bass will just about pay for itself in a
while.

Shouldn't be a problem. I already work 10-15 gigs a month on
electric. Just have to get good quick!

[Oliver Sampson]

Post by Boom
What's a good bow go for?

I got mine for 200 Euros, but my teacher thought it should have cost
much more.

Don't forget cases for the bass and the bow.

[e***@yahoo.com]

This is just a bit over the top. While the best basses are carved,
there are some very good ply basses. In the $2k price range, a ply bass
has a good chance of sounding better than carved, and also of holding
together longer. Ply basses are durable, and amplify well.

Consider a carbon fiber bow with real horse hair.

Forget about using a mike. It is not practical for most live
performance use.

My 1962 Kay is a fine jazz instrument, and has definitely paid for
itself in gigs, since I got it for free. For a few years, I transported
it in a 1987 Mazda 626 sedan. It went into the passenger seat
upside-down. The main thing is to make sure the bass is not being
supported by the neck when you are driving.

Post by Michael Bradley-Robbins
Get a jeep, man. Also, stay away from laminated basses. it's

basically

Post by Michael Bradley-Robbins
plywood with a veneer, and the tone will sound like crap in a few years. Get
solid wood ones, with a good bow (don't go cheap), and don't

underestimate a

Post by Michael Bradley-Robbins
normal mike system. About the gigs, you will always get the gig if you get
good enough, as there are less UB players around, as opposed to BG players.
If you can get hired for gigs, the bass will just about pay for itself in a
while.

[airbass]

Hehehe....this usually happens only to PDs posts, but I disagree with every
point made in this post :) :)

Andy

Post by Michael Bradley-Robbins
Get a jeep, man. Also, stay away from laminated basses. it's basically
plywood with a veneer, and the tone will sound like crap in a few years. Get
solid wood ones, with a good bow (don't go cheap), and don't underestimate a
normal mike system. About the gigs, you will always get the gig if you get
good enough, as there are less UB players around, as opposed to BG players.
If you can get hired for gigs, the bass will just about pay for itself in a
while.

[Gary Rosen]

Post by Michael Bradley-Robbins
Get a jeep, man. Also, stay away from laminated basses. it's basically
plywood with a veneer, and the tone will sound like crap in a few years.

Although I recently "upgraded" to a solid wood bass, I strongly
disagree with this. Many players have gotten good results with
plywood basses, especially in blues/roots/rockabilly/bluegrass
music. If you are playing in a symphony, of course, that's
another story.

- Gary Rosen

[Mister Tawny the Talking Tiger]

Post by Gary Rosen

Post by Michael Bradley-Robbins
Get a jeep, man. Also, stay away from laminated basses. it's basically
plywood with a veneer, and the tone will sound like crap in a few years.

Although I recently "upgraded" to a solid wood bass, I strongly
disagree with this. Many players have gotten good results with
plywood basses, especially in blues/roots/rockabilly/bluegrass
music. If you are playing in a symphony, of course, that's
another story.
- Gary Rosen

I have a few basses, and have been mightily pleased with plywood, and
heck even aluminum and fiberglass. Solid wood is good, but often the
tonalities in the low end need the damping that plywood can offer.
Especially if you are playing heavily with a bow or a lot of pizz.
Wagner and Williams comes to mind.......

I guess it's all in what sound you like. I firmly beleive it is the
player and not the instrument that makes the sound. A great bass with a
lousy player will sound bad, a great bassist with a mediocre bass will
still make it sing!

[jeffb]

Post by Mister Tawny the Talking Tiger
I guess it's all in what sound you like. I firmly beleive it is the
player and not the instrument that makes the sound. A great bass with a
lousy player will sound bad, a great bassist with a mediocre bass will
still make it sing!

That is the plain truth.

jeffb
____________________________________________________________________________
"Take care of the luxuries and the necessities will take care of themselves"
-Dorothy Parker

[Kirk]

Post by Michael Bradley-Robbins
Get a jeep, man. Also, stay away from laminated basses. it's basically
plywood with a veneer, and the tone will sound like crap in a few years. Get
solid wood ones, with a good bow (don't go cheap), and don't underestimate a
normal mike system. About the gigs, you will always get the gig if you get
good enough, as there are less UB players around, as opposed to BG players.
If you can get hired for gigs, the bass will just about pay for itself in a
while.

Dude, you are so full of crap. Ray Brown toured with a laminated bass and
I suppose you are going to say his live sound sucked???!!! Mingus toured
with a laminated bass, Ron Carted has toured with a laminated bass when he
did not use his Juzek. Laminated basses "play in" just like fully carved
basses. Laminated basses are stable in different climates unlike carved
basses, and you don't deal with cracks. All carved basses crack sooner or
later, I know, I have one with many repaired cracks (normal). You need to
do some research before you make a statement like that.


From what I have read most put their bass on the passenge seats with the
seat reclined. The body is supported by the seat bottom and back and the
neck either just touches the headrest (no weight bearing) or is suspended.
I have never tried it with my basses, I have a truck. I have both a fully
carved 1938 Alfred Meyer and a 1yr old laminated Upton Bass (UB Jazz)
www.uptonbass.com I highly recommend a UB Jazz as it kicks the crap out of
any Kay/Engle I have played. They also have a satisfaction guarentee, if
you don't like it you send it back. Gary Upton will make you a deal and
get you what you need for less than 2K. Just my 2 cents.

K

[John Shaughnessy]

I fit mine into my Geo sedan all the time. Takes a little twisting and
turning, but I do it.

And don't listen to the other guy about lamiate basses. I actually prefer
the attack of a plywood bass for pizz/Jazz playing. You can't go wrong with
an Englehart or old Kay.
--
Learning funk bass? visit www.js3jazz.com/store.htm

"I am quite sure now that often, very often, in matters concerning religion
and politics a man's reasoning powers are not above the monkey's."
- Mark Twain

Post by Boom
Welp, when I told my wife I could add 2-3 gigs a month or more if I
bought an upright bass and learned a handful of jazz tunes, she gave
me the go-ahead to charge away our already maxed credit cards for an
upright. I could probably get away with a budget of $2000 for bass,
bow and pickup system, give or take $200. Ain't a lot, but it'll do.
So I'm looking to buy an acoustic upright instead of an EUB if I can
get away with it because I'm a man ( :P ), but I only have a midsize
car to haul it with. Can I fit at least a 3/4 size bass in a midsize
car? I want a full-size bass, but I would make do with 3/4 if it
won't fit. How do you guys with uprights and cars transport them?

[Boom]

On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 05:33:28 GMT, "John Shaughnessy"

Post by John Shaughnessy
I fit mine into my Geo sedan all the time. Takes a little twisting and
turning, but I do it.

Well if you can do that, I should be able to fit one into an Intrepid.
But then where do you put the two 8 x 10's and the 16 space rack?
Seems to me something's got to give.

Post by John Shaughnessy
And don't listen to the other guy about lamiate basses. I actually prefer
the attack of a plywood bass for pizz/Jazz playing. You can't go wrong with
an Englehart or old Kay.

My thinking exactly. But I don't even know where to get one around
here. Sam Ash has cheesy Chinese basses and EUB's. That's all I
know. Oh well, a quick Google search should reveal the answer.
Thanks John.

[Oliver Sampson]

Post by Boom
On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 05:33:28 GMT, "John Shaughnessy"

Post by John Shaughnessy
I fit mine into my Geo sedan all the time. Takes a little twisting and
turning, but I do it.

Well if you can do that, I should be able to fit one into an Intrepid.
But then where do you put the two 8 x 10's and the 16 space rack?
Seems to me something's got to give.

Post by John Shaughnessy
And don't listen to the other guy about lamiate basses. I actually prefer
the attack of a plywood bass for pizz/Jazz playing. You can't go wrong with
an Englehart or old Kay.

My thinking exactly. But I don't even know where to get one around
here. Sam Ash has cheesy Chinese basses and EUB's. That's all I
know. Oh well, a quick Google search should reveal the answer.
Thanks John.

Don't discount those Chinese basses too quickly. Their quality has
proven to be outstanding--I was very surprised.

[John Shaughnessy]

2 8x 10's and a rack? What the hell for - feedback?

If you don't have the "Jazzman approved" Polytone or Acoustic Image combos,
just take along your practice amp.

And don't skimp on the pickups either. I'd reccommend either the K&K or
Underwood systems.
--
Learning funk bass? visit www.js3jazz.com/store.htm

"I am quite sure now that often, very often, in matters concerning religion
and politics a man's reasoning powers are not above the monkey's."
- Mark Twain

Post by Boom
On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 05:33:28 GMT, "John Shaughnessy"

Post by John Shaughnessy
I fit mine into my Geo sedan all the time. Takes a little twisting and
turning, but I do it.

Well if you can do that, I should be able to fit one into an Intrepid.
But then where do you put the two 8 x 10's and the 16 space rack?
Seems to me something's got to give.

Post by John Shaughnessy
And don't listen to the other guy about lamiate basses. I actually prefer
the attack of a plywood bass for pizz/Jazz playing. You can't go wrong with
an Englehart or old Kay.

My thinking exactly. But I don't even know where to get one around
here. Sam Ash has cheesy Chinese basses and EUB's. That's all I
know. Oh well, a quick Google search should reveal the answer.
Thanks John.

[Kloka-mo']

Have a look for a local shop here:

http://www.gollihur.com/kkbass/luthiers.html

Asking on Talkbass.com for a local store was helpful to me.
--
-rob Slidell, LA

O>
/(\)
^^

Post by Boom
On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 05:33:28 GMT, "John Shaughnessy"

Post by John Shaughnessy
I fit mine into my Geo sedan all the time. Takes a little twisting and
turning, but I do it.

Well if you can do that, I should be able to fit one into an Intrepid.
But then where do you put the two 8 x 10's and the 16 space rack?
Seems to me something's got to give.

Post by John Shaughnessy
And don't listen to the other guy about lamiate basses. I actually prefer
the attack of a plywood bass for pizz/Jazz playing. You can't go wrong with
an Englehart or old Kay.

My thinking exactly. But I don't even know where to get one around
here. Sam Ash has cheesy Chinese basses and EUB's. That's all I
know. Oh well, a quick Google search should reveal the answer.
Thanks John.

[Oliver Sampson]

Post by Boom
Welp, when I told my wife I could add 2-3 gigs a month or more if I
bought an upright bass and learned a handful of jazz tunes, she gave
me the go-ahead to charge away our already maxed credit cards for an
upright. I could probably get away with a budget of $2000 for bass,
bow and pickup system, give or take $200. Ain't a lot, but it'll do.
So I'm looking to buy an acoustic upright instead of an EUB if I can
get away with it because I'm a man ( :P ), but I only have a midsize
car to haul it with. Can I fit at least a 3/4 size bass in a midsize
car? I want a full-size bass, but I would make do with 3/4 if it
won't fit. How do you guys with uprights and cars transport them?

Why do you want a 4/4? Are you 6'6" tall? As I understand it, 4/4
are really only for classical gigs. 3/4 is the way to no matter what.

[Danko]

Regarding car issue, my URB fits perfectly into my wife's Opel Agila (this
one: http://www.opel.de/shop/cars/agila/index.act). So, yeah, it should fit
ok in your car aswell.

But umm, one question Boom: I have an upright and I'm certain I can't play
any gigs on it because I'm not good enough (I get to play plenty of gigs
with the electric). How did you manage to get good enough to play gigs with
an URB and never had one before? Or are you a brave fella who doesn't care
if he hits wrong notes?

(I'm not taunting, I just wanna know how I can jump into acoustic gigging
faster)

Danko

Post by Boom
Welp, when I told my wife I could add 2-3 gigs a month or more if I
bought an upright bass and learned a handful of jazz tunes, she gave
me the go-ahead to charge away our already maxed credit cards for an
upright. I could probably get away with a budget of $2000 for bass,
bow and pickup system, give or take $200. Ain't a lot, but it'll do.
So I'm looking to buy an acoustic upright instead of an EUB if I can
get away with it because I'm a man ( :P ), but I only have a midsize
car to haul it with. Can I fit at least a 3/4 size bass in a midsize
car? I want a full-size bass, but I would make do with 3/4 if it
won't fit. How do you guys with uprights and cars transport them?

[Boom]

On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 11:02:34 +0100, "Danko"

Post by Danko
Regarding car issue, my URB fits perfectly into my wife's Opel Agila (this
one: http://www.opel.de/shop/cars/agila/index.act). So, yeah, it should fit
ok in your car aswell.
But umm, one question Boom: I have an upright and I'm certain I can't play
any gigs on it because I'm not good enough (I get to play plenty of gigs
with the electric). How did you manage to get good enough to play gigs with
an URB and never had one before? Or are you a brave fella who doesn't care
if he hits wrong notes?

I played one in high school, plus it's not that big a stretch to go
from fretless electric to upright. You just have to spend some time
with it before the gig, find the harmonics, and play a few scales.
You might be a little bit off now and then but nobody really cares.

Post by Danko
(I'm not taunting, I just wanna know how I can jump into acoustic gigging
faster)

Just do it (Nike won't sue me now, will they?).

[Mister Tawny the Talking Tiger]

Look into some of the cheaper vintage basses from Kay, Ampeg, Gretsch
and a host of other makers. Some of the Chinese basses are damn fine
too, and for $600 or so not a bad deal. Also consider looking into
local high schools. Often they have surplus insturments that are very
good quality, that just need a bit of work. Usually they are selling
them dirt cheap too. Offer a bit more, knowing it'll help some kid
learn music.

Getting a full size bass doesn't make sense for an amplified player.
The real reason for the larger size is more sound. Since you are going
to be playing amplifed, no need.

Rather than spending more on the equipment, look into getting better
quality strings and practicing, A LOT. Strings, IMHO, can make a
mediocre bass sound great. Be prepared to change them as soon as they
start to get any dead spots. On an electric you can get away with a few
small dead spots, on an upright, the tone carries so much, and is heard
even over moderate amplification. So any dead spots are immediately
noticable.

This is not an easy transition because there is much more finesse in
playing an upright. Training yourself to play vibrato can make you not
only more "hireable", but a better bassist in the long run.

[Cody M. Stumpo]

Danko <legal-***@fly.srk.fer.hr> wrote:
: Regarding car issue, my URB fits perfectly into my wife's Opel Agila (this
: one: http://www.opel.de/shop/cars/agila/index.act). So, yeah, it should fit
: ok in your car aswell.

: But umm, one question Boom: I have an upright and I'm certain I can't play
: any gigs on it because I'm not good enough (I get to play plenty of gigs
: with the electric). How did you manage to get good enough to play gigs with
: an URB and never had one before? Or are you a brave fella who doesn't care
: if he hits wrong notes?

: (I'm not taunting, I just wanna know how I can jump into acoustic gigging
: faster)


Play really loud fast songs, unamplified. You will practically just be a
drum at that point. Not only would you not have to be in tune, you wouldn't
need to know the chords or anything. Just listen to a lot of walking bass
lines and get a feel for exactly how the timing goes, and the general shape
of lines.



: Danko

: "Boom" <***@nnn.com> wrote in message
: news:***@4ax.com...
:> Welp, when I told my wife I could add 2-3 gigs a month or more if I
:> bought an upright bass and learned a handful of jazz tunes, she gave
:> me the go-ahead to charge away our already maxed credit cards for an
:> upright. I could probably get away with a budget of $2000 for bass,
:> bow and pickup system, give or take $200. Ain't a lot, but it'll do.
:>
:> So I'm looking to buy an acoustic upright instead of an EUB if I can
:> get away with it because I'm a man ( :P ), but I only have a midsize
:> car to haul it with. Can I fit at least a 3/4 size bass in a midsize
:> car? I want a full-size bass, but I would make do with 3/4 if it
:> won't fit. How do you guys with uprights and cars transport them?

[airbass]

Post by Boom
So I'm looking to buy an acoustic upright instead of an EUB if I can
get away with it because I'm a man ( :P ), but I only have a midsize
car to haul it with. Can I fit at least a 3/4 size bass in a midsize
car? I want a full-size bass, but I would make do with 3/4 if it
won't fit. How do you guys with uprights and cars transport them?

Good for you Boom, but there are things you should know.

Double Bass is a whole new instrument than you are used to with electric. You
can get something very good for that kind of money, or you can come away with
just driftwood. The difference between wasting my money and getting something
great comes down to one word - *RESEARCH* .

And the best place to start off that research is at the TalkBass Double Bass
Forum. http://www.talkbass.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=44

It's a whole 'nuther world than the juvenile antics on TalkBass electric
side...I think you'll enjoy it. There are numerous "newbie" information posts
archived at the top of each forum - you could spend a lot of time reading these
and come away armed to make the most of your money. There's even plenty of
threads about "will a 3/4 bass fit in 'this' or 'that' car :) :) .

Oh, and you should know that playing DB is horribly addictive - once you take up
the challenge it will overshadow your electric playing - no more zipping around
the country with your Steinberger copy. :) :) :)

Anyway - spend wisely - I don't have to tell you to have fun, because you surely
will.

Best,

Andy

PS: If you need any other info just zap me an email.

[Boom]

Post by airbass
Double Bass is a whole new instrument than you are used to with electric. You
can get something very good for that kind of money, or you can come away with
just driftwood. The difference between wasting my money and getting something
great comes down to one word - *RESEARCH* .
And the best place to start off that research is at the TalkBass Double Bass
Forum. http://www.talkbass.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=44

Yeah, good info there. Thanks for the link.

Post by airbass
It's a whole 'nuther world than the juvenile antics on TalkBass electric
side...I think you'll enjoy it. There are numerous "newbie" information posts
archived at the top of each forum - you could spend a lot of time reading these
and come away armed to make the most of your money. There's even plenty of
threads about "will a 3/4 bass fit in 'this' or 'that' car :) :) .
Oh, and you should know that playing DB is horribly addictive - once you take up
the challenge it will overshadow your electric playing - no more zipping around
the country with your Steinberger copy. :) :) :)

Hah...you know, since I got the Fender Jazz, I haven't taken the
Steinberger copy on any road trips. But since the double bass won't
fit in an overhead bin and a flight case is like $3000, I don't see
myself zipping around the country with it either.

Post by airbass
Anyway - spend wisely - I don't have to tell you to have fun, because you surely
will.

Thanks Andy, and everyone else for their great info!

[Boom]

OK, barring anyone locally coming up with anything, I have made some
decisions about what I think I want.

BASS:

Engelhardt ES-1 --- After looking around at different basses in the
$1000-2000 range, the Engelhardt seems like the only logical choice.
The Shen looks nice as well, but they are a bit more pricey than the
Engelhardt. And for jazz and rockabilly, I think it will do just
fine. I could probably make do with the rosewood neck and tailpiece
for $1000, but for an extra $300, ebony would be more indestructible.

One question, though: how come older Engelhardts sell for more than
new ones? Is there that much of a difference between older and newer
ones?

PICKUP/PREAMP:

K&K Bass Master Rockabilly Plus. Thought about the Precision thing
along with a bridge pickup, but Tom Vee from Bobby Vee's band did that
on his old Kay and it sounds great but looks fairly sloppy. If there
is a dangling wire, I will find a way to pull it out. So I decided on
the Bass Master Rockabilly Plus because of the good things you guys
said about the K&K Bass Max, which it comes with, along with a small
transducer mic for under the neck. Going to use the preamp it comes
with for now.

STRINGS:

I am assuming that the strings that come on Engelhardt basses are
pretty well unusable, since nobody ever said anything good about them,
so I have decided on Corelli Heavies or Extra Heavies to try out. I
also considered TI Spirocores since they're the jazz and rockabilly
standard, but after reading that Bob Gollihur uses the Corellis now, I
figured I'd give them a try.

BOW:

Haven't decided. Found carbon fiber bows for $250 and Brazilwood bows
for $150. A couple people on here said to get carbon fiber, but to be
honest, I don't know the difference. I will probably get a German bow
since it seems to be the consensus that they're easier to use. Please
feel free to set me straight on the bow since I know nothing about
them.

I was also considering getting a bass bag for it, but I'm having
second thoughts about it. Considering that I plan on using a wireless
and doing cool rockabilly tricks like standing on it and playing it
behind my back, as well as renting it to acts I work with who do the
same, do I need to worry about dinging it up while it's in transit?

Also, how do most of you carry the bass in from the car to the gig?
Do you use those bass wheels? Do you use a cart? I have a few gigs
that are very long walks from the car to the stage, so I don't know if
I want to carry it but I don't want to spend $300 on carrying it
either.

I welcome all comments about my choices, good bad or indifferent. You
all have been a big help...thanks!

[Tom Paterson]

Post by Boom
Considering that I plan on using a wireless
and doing cool rockabilly tricks like standing on it and playing it
behind my back, as well as renting it to acts I work with who do the
same, do I need to worry about dinging it >up while it's in transit?

Uh, yes. If it's going to be destroyed, just look for a cheap junker, and a
successor... marshmallows and long green sticks, dude. --TP

[e***@yahoo.com]

Post by Boom
OK, barring anyone locally coming up with anything, I have made some
decisions about what I think I want.
One question, though: how come older Engelhardts sell for more than
new ones? Is there that much of a difference between older and newer
ones?

How come old fenders sell for more? There is a perception that age
influences quality, or that the quality of the materials has declined.
I'm not sure it's true.

Post by Boom
K&K Bass Master Rockabilly Plus. Thought about the Precision thing
along with a bridge pickup, but Tom Vee from Bobby Vee's band did that
on his old Kay and it sounds great but looks fairly sloppy. If there
is a dangling wire, I will find a way to pull it out. So I decided on
the Bass Master Rockabilly Plus because of the good things you guys
said about the K&K Bass Max, which it comes with, along with a small
transducer mic for under the neck. Going to use the preamp it comes
with for now.

Those are all good choices.

Post by Boom
I am assuming that the strings that come on Engelhardt basses are
pretty well unusable, since nobody ever said anything good about them,
so I have decided on Corelli Heavies or Extra Heavies to try out. I
also considered TI Spirocores since they're the jazz and rockabilly
standard, but after reading that Bob Gollihur uses the Corellis now, I
figured I'd give them a try.

With all other things, trying the default first before trying anything
else is a good practical approach.

Post by Boom
Haven't decided. Found carbon fiber bows for $250 and Brazilwood bows
for $150. A couple people on here said to get carbon fiber, but to be
honest, I don't know the difference. I will probably get a German bow
since it seems to be the consensus that they're easier to use.

Please

Post by Boom
feel free to set me straight on the bow since I know nothing about
them.

The main thing about the bow is getting someone to teach you how to use
it. This is something that just can't be described in words or
pictures. If you find a really great teacher, and the teacher has a
preference, then it might make sense to just do what the teacher does,
in order to get the best learning experience out of it.

Post by Boom
I was also considering getting a bass bag for it, but I'm having
second thoughts about it. Considering that I plan on using a

wireless

Post by Boom
and doing cool rockabilly tricks like standing on it and playing it
behind my back, as well as renting it to acts I work with who do the
same, do I need to worry about dinging it up while it's in transit?

Yes, because "dinging it up" can include taking it completely out of
service. Like knocking the bridge over, which causes the soundpost to
fall over, and you are out of commission. A bag will cost you less than
practically any repair job! It's also easier to shove a bass into a car
if you know that it's being protected. And don't forget that a bass is
held together with water-soluble glue. Finally, a bag keeps curious
hands off the instrument and communicates the expecation to your
renters that they should treat it with care.

Post by Boom
Also, how do most of you carry the bass in from the car to the gig?
Do you use those bass wheels? Do you use a cart? I have a few gigs
that are very long walks from the car to the stage, so I don't know if
I want to carry it but I don't want to spend $300 on carrying it
either.

I attached a shoulder strap between a couple of the handles -- one on
the side and the other up by the neck. And I made a really thick soft
pad for the strap. So I just carry it over my shoulder. Another idea is
to strap on one of those folding luggage dollies. I don't think you
ever have to pay for any fancy bass-specific gadget.

There are bass bags with backpack-type straps. I have seen people carry
their basses that way. And you are going to buy a bag, right?

Post by Boom
I welcome all comments about my choices, good bad or indifferent.

You

Post by Boom
all have been a big help...thanks!

I think your choices are all good. It is my guess that you will
eventually want to try a magnetic pickup, but you can wait and see. The
magnitude of the feedback problem varies from one instrument to
another, and you just have to take your chance and find out. If you can
get good sound and sufficient volume with the piezo, then you don't
need to go any further.

[Boom]

Post by e***@yahoo.com

Post by Boom
One question, though: how come older Engelhardts sell for more than
new ones? Is there that much of a difference between older and newer
ones?

How come old fenders sell for more? There is a perception that age
influences quality, or that the quality of the materials has declined.
I'm not sure it's true.

Well, I might understand with the Kays but I saw a 1983 Engelhardt
going for $2000 that costs $1000 new. To me that's not old enough to
warrant a $1000 increase...oh well...

Post by e***@yahoo.com
With all other things, trying the default first before trying anything
else is a good practical approach.

I guess but I have heard bad things about the strings that come on
them.

Post by e***@yahoo.com
The main thing about the bow is getting someone to teach you how to use
it. This is something that just can't be described in words or
pictures. If you find a really great teacher, and the teacher has a
preference, then it might make sense to just do what the teacher does,
in order to get the best learning experience out of it.

So hold off on the bow until I find a teacher, huh? Makes sense.

Post by e***@yahoo.com
Yes, because "dinging it up" can include taking it completely out of
service. Like knocking the bridge over, which causes the soundpost to
fall over, and you are out of commission. A bag will cost you less than
practically any repair job! It's also easier to shove a bass into a car
if you know that it's being protected. And don't forget that a bass is
held together with water-soluble glue. Finally, a bag keeps curious
hands off the instrument and communicates the expecation to your
renters that they should treat it with care.

OK, fair enough. You make good points.

Post by e***@yahoo.com
I attached a shoulder strap between a couple of the handles -- one on
the side and the other up by the neck. And I made a really thick soft
pad for the strap. So I just carry it over my shoulder. Another idea is
to strap on one of those folding luggage dollies. I don't think you
ever have to pay for any fancy bass-specific gadget.

Me neither. I just didn't want to lug this huge albatross across a
hotel kitchen. I think I'll just buy a dolly.

Post by e***@yahoo.com
There are bass bags with backpack-type straps. I have seen people carry
their basses that way. And you are going to buy a bag, right?

Yes already!

Post by e***@yahoo.com
I think your choices are all good. It is my guess that you will
eventually want to try a magnetic pickup, but you can wait and see. The
magnitude of the feedback problem varies from one instrument to
another, and you just have to take your chance and find out. If you can
get good sound and sufficient volume with the piezo, then you don't
need to go any further.

Wait...I thought piezos were thought of as the best for amplification.
They feed back at low volumes? I want to get this thing right the
first time so should I be looking at magnetics instead?

[Kirk]

URB's hold value very well. When looking at prices you really compare
selling price with replacement price. Also most basses become "played in",
the sound improves with use, much much more than electric basses.

I still suggest you check out www.uptonbass.com for a great laminated URB
and give Gary Upton a call. All his basses come setup (fingerboard
contoured, bridge setup, soundpost set for correct position and length, etc)
so you will not spend extra for that (could cost as much as $600). Mine
played killer right out of the box. Talk to Gary and he will make
suggestions that are right on. I bought a UB Jazz, a bag, and an adjustable
bridge. Gary also has a new carbon bow that is supposed to be killer.

K

Post by Boom

Post by e***@yahoo.com

Post by Boom
One question, though: how come older Engelhardts sell for more than
new ones? Is there that much of a difference between older and newer
ones?

How come old fenders sell for more? There is a perception that age
influences quality, or that the quality of the materials has declined.
I'm not sure it's true.

Well, I might understand with the Kays but I saw a 1983 Engelhardt
going for $2000 that costs $1000 new. To me that's not old enough to
warrant a $1000 increase...oh well...

Post by e***@yahoo.com
With all other things, trying the default first before trying anything
else is a good practical approach.

I guess but I have heard bad things about the strings that come on
them.

Post by e***@yahoo.com
The main thing about the bow is getting someone to teach you how to use
it. This is something that just can't be described in words or
pictures. If you find a really great teacher, and the teacher has a
preference, then it might make sense to just do what the teacher does,
in order to get the best learning experience out of it.

So hold off on the bow until I find a teacher, huh? Makes sense.

Post by e***@yahoo.com
Yes, because "dinging it up" can include taking it completely out of
service. Like knocking the bridge over, which causes the soundpost to
fall over, and you are out of commission. A bag will cost you less than
practically any repair job! It's also easier to shove a bass into a car
if you know that it's being protected. And don't forget that a bass is
held together with water-soluble glue. Finally, a bag keeps curious
hands off the instrument and communicates the expecation to your
renters that they should treat it with care.

OK, fair enough. You make good points.

Post by e***@yahoo.com
I attached a shoulder strap between a couple of the handles -- one on
the side and the other up by the neck. And I made a really thick soft
pad for the strap. So I just carry it over my shoulder. Another idea is
to strap on one of those folding luggage dollies. I don't think you
ever have to pay for any fancy bass-specific gadget.

Me neither. I just didn't want to lug this huge albatross across a
hotel kitchen. I think I'll just buy a dolly.

Post by e***@yahoo.com
There are bass bags with backpack-type straps. I have seen people carry
their basses that way. And you are going to buy a bag, right?

Yes already!

Post by e***@yahoo.com
I think your choices are all good. It is my guess that you will
eventually want to try a magnetic pickup, but you can wait and see. The
magnitude of the feedback problem varies from one instrument to
another, and you just have to take your chance and find out. If you can
get good sound and sufficient volume with the piezo, then you don't
need to go any further.

Wait...I thought piezos were thought of as the best for amplification.
They feed back at low volumes? I want to get this thing right the
first time so should I be looking at magnetics instead?

[e***@yahoo.com]

Post by Boom
Wait...I thought piezos were thought of as the best for

amplification.

Post by Boom
They feed back at low volumes? I want to get this thing right the
first time so should I be looking at magnetics instead?

Piezos give the most authentic tone, but they have feedback issues.
Magnetic are less susceptible to feedback, but tend to give the bass
more of an electricky tone. Some bassists can't tolerate this at all,
others don't care. My bass has a homemade magnetic pickup that I have
used for several years. For a commercial upright bass magnetic pickup,
look up Pierre Josephs on the Web.

Therefore you have a tradeoff between tone quality and feedback. But it
depends on your bass, so you might as well give the piezo a chance.
Also, by way of advice, don't be too worried about getting everything
right on the first try, because that's just impossible. You may end
using piezo for low volume gigs and magnetic for high volume.

What is "low volume" with respect to feedback? Here is a reference
point: My Kay, with an Underwood pickup, easily feeds back when plugged
into a GK MB150E combo amp. Even with this low powered rig, feedback is
what limits my useable amp power. With the magnetic pickup, I can run
this amp at full power.

There are lots of tips and tricks for reducing feedback -- check out
the www.talkbass.com forum. Everything is a compromise.

[Gary Rosen]

Post by Mister Tawny the Talking Tiger

Post by Boom
Wait...I thought piezos were thought of as the best for

amplification.

Post by Boom
They feed back at low volumes? I want to get this thing right the
first time so should I be looking at magnetics instead?

What is "low volume" with respect to feedback? Here is a reference
point: My Kay, with an Underwood pickup, easily feeds back when plugged
into a GK MB150E combo amp. Even with this low powered rig, feedback is
what limits my useable amp power. With the magnetic pickup, I can run
this amp at full power.

Are you using a preamp? Makes a BIG difference.

- Gary Rosen

[e***@yahoo.com]

Post by Gary Rosen
Are you using a preamp? Makes a BIG difference.
- Gary Rosen

Good point. The amp has a 10 Meg input impedance -- should be
compatible with a piezo pickup. I have also tried an outboard preamp
and the results are the same.

Probably the issue that I am facing is that I settled on the magnetic
pickup before trying hard enough to make the piezo work. That's one
reason why I am still suggesting to Boom that he work with the piezo.
Anyway, I plan to work on this again soon, but some other projects take
precedence.

[Gary Rosen]

Post by e***@yahoo.com

Post by Gary Rosen
Are you using a preamp? Makes a BIG difference.
- Gary Rosen

Good point. The amp has a 10 Meg input impedance -- should be
compatible with a piezo pickup. I have also tried an outboard preamp
and the results are the same.

Interesting, I didn't know any standalone amps (not preamps) had
input impedance that high. That's really what makes the difference,
not the preamp itself although a preamp with some tone controls or
graphic EQ gives you more options for tone shaping/notching that
can reduce feedback.

Another feature that preamps designed for URB often have
(Fishman, L. R. Baggs) is a phase reversal switch that you
can play with to get rid of feedback. The setting could vary
depending on the position of the bass relative to the amp,
the room etc.

- Gary Rosen

[Derek Tearne]

Post by Gary Rosen

Post by e***@yahoo.com

Post by Gary Rosen
Are you using a preamp? Makes a BIG difference.
- Gary Rosen

Good point. The amp has a 10 Meg input impedance -- should be
compatible with a piezo pickup. I have also tried an outboard preamp
and the results are the same.

Interesting, I didn't know any standalone amps (not preamps) had
input impedance that high. That's really what makes the difference,
not the preamp itself although a preamp with some tone controls or
graphic EQ gives you more options for tone shaping/notching that
can reduce feedback.

The acoustic image line have 10 Mohm impedance, probably other amps
designed for use with piezo/acoustic instruments also have the same
impedance.

It's a bit confusing though, because some manufacturers have
'active/passive' or 'high-low gain' inputs but don't specifiy the
impedance, and others have hi-lo-Z inputs but don't specify the
sensitivity. Why can't they state both? And why can't they all use the
same terms?

--- Derek

[e***@yahoo.com]

Post by Gary Rosen
Another feature that preamps designed for URB often have
(Fishman, L. R. Baggs) is a phase reversal switch that you
can play with to get rid of feedback. The setting could vary
depending on the position of the bass relative to the amp,
the room etc.

True. This is something I will definitely try. For a lot of piezo's, it
can be achieved by simply flipping the pickup over. Right now my
Underwood is actually damaged, so I have to get something new before I
continue this experiment.

[timbo]

Post by Gary Rosen

Post by e***@yahoo.com

Post by Gary Rosen
Are you using a preamp? Makes a BIG difference.
- Gary Rosen

Good point. The amp has a 10 Meg input impedance -- should be
compatible with a piezo pickup. I have also tried an outboard preamp
and the results are the same.

from the mb150e users manaul:

Input Section:
Maximum Input Level 0.45V Rms
With -14dB pad 2.0V Rms Input
Impedance 1M Ohm
Send output impedance 1k Ohm
Return impedance (MBE) 70k Ohm
Return impedance (MBS) 12k Ohm
Line Output Impedance 1k Ohm
Direct Output Impedance 500 Ohms

so only 1 meg input impedance. still pretty high though. what impedance are
piezo pickups ususally rated at?

Post by Gary Rosen
Another feature that preamps designed for URB often have
(Fishman, L. R. Baggs) is a phase reversal switch that you
can play with to get rid of feedback. The setting could vary
depending on the position of the bass relative to the amp,
the room etc.

handy thing, phase reversal - can increase the available gain no end..
position is a big variable though, & does make a huge difference. i usually
run my bass through front-of-house as well as my gk mb150e, which i use
mainly as a monitor - main sound goes FOH, i get pretty good results that
way..

cheers,

timbo


--
http://www.zydegators.com
http://www.zydegators.com/basspics

[Todd H.]

Post by e***@yahoo.com

Post by Boom
OK, barring anyone locally coming up with anything, I have made some
decisions about what I think I want.
One question, though: how come older Engelhardts sell for more than
new ones? Is there that much of a difference between older and newer
ones?

How come old fenders sell for more? There is a perception that age
influences quality, or that the quality of the materials has declined.
I'm not sure it's true.

I believe for acoustic basses, the premium for the older stuff is
based largely on the notion that they really don't make trees like
they used to.

To wit, there's increasingly less old growth wood around.

[bracing for someone over 50 to step up to the plate and hit the ole
hanging innuendo curveball]

Best Regards,

[jeffb]

Post by e***@yahoo.com
The main thing about the bow is getting someone to teach you how to use
it. This is something that just can't be described in words or
pictures. If you find a really great teacher, and the teacher has a
preference, then it might make sense to just do what the teacher does,
in order to get the best learning experience out of it.

True but many good players use both well. I'd go ahead and get a
carbon fiber German. A) you can't start too soon, B) a $250 carbon
fiber is gonna play better than ANY new wood bow for that money (ok
there will be anomalies but you have a better chance of being struck
by lightening than finding a better wood bow) and C) even if you do
get Reid Hudson bow down the road you'll still need a beater to take
to pizz gigs and an indestructible carbon fiber can't be beat for
that. A mid priced carbon fiber bow is a lifetime investment for a
working pro.

Post by e***@yahoo.com
Yes, because "dinging it up" can include taking it completely out of
service. Like knocking the bridge over, which causes the soundpost to
fall over, and you are out of commission. A bag will cost you less than
practically any repair job! It's also easier to shove a bass into a car
if you know that it's being protected. And don't forget that a bass is
held together with water-soluble glue. Finally, a bag keeps curious
hands off the instrument and communicates the expecation to your
renters that they should treat it with care.

Very much agreed. Get a cheapo vinyl bag if nothing else and a
Mooradian or something asap when budget permits. If the thing is
making you money spend the money to KEEP it making you money.

Post by e***@yahoo.com
I attached a shoulder strap between a couple of the handles -- one on
the side and the other up by the neck. And I made a really thick soft
pad for the strap. So I just carry it over my shoulder. Another idea is
to strap on one of those folding luggage dollies. I don't think you
ever have to pay for any fancy bass-specific gadget.

Also very much agreed. Bass neck on yer shoulder, hand on the strap
that most bags have at the cutaway/shoulder area, yer amp in the other
hand and walk. Hence the popularity of the GK 150's and AI Contras
etc.

Post by e***@yahoo.com
There are bass bags with backpack-type straps. I have seen people carry
their basses that way. And you are going to buy a bag, right?

You can't see it when it's on your back.
Can't see it = gonna bang it.
URBs is big.

Post by e***@yahoo.com
I think your choices are all good. It is my guess that you will
eventually want to try a magnetic pickup, but you can wait and see. The
magnitude of the feedback problem varies from one instrument to
another, and you just have to take your chance and find out. If you can
get good sound and sufficient volume with the piezo, then you don't
need to go any further.

In defense of the aesthetics of a magnetic pickup you can look at what
you're mounting it on as a small fender body cut down to 4"x5". Rout
it for the p.up, install a jack out, give it shape that flows with the
bass and for rockabilly finish it black with orange flames. Even doing
all this wouldn't cost any more than a half decent piezo set up and
could easily go from bass to bass. R&R!

There's custom too. Kent Armstrong made me one out of black epoxy
poured into a wood mould for that "continuation of the ebony" look.
I gotta run right now and point a followspot for the big disaster
relief concert over at the hockey rink. I'll link a picture of it
latter.


jeffb
____________________________________________________________________________
"Take care of the luxuries and the necessities will take care of themselves"
-Dorothy Parker

[Derek Tearne]

Post by jeffb
In defense of the aesthetics of a magnetic pickup you can look at what
you're mounting it on as a small fender body cut down to 4"x5". Rout
it for the p.up, install a jack out, give it shape that flows with the
bass and for rockabilly finish it black with orange flames. Even doing
all this wouldn't cost any more than a half decent piezo set up and
could easily go from bass to bass. R&R!

There's also the Moses/lace pickup that mounts nicely on the end of the
fingerboard. I don't know what these sound like though. Aria also make
magnetic pickups designed to fit on the fingerboards of the SWB electric
upright basses. These are available as an optional extra for the SWB
Lite - http://www.ariaguitars.com/jp/02prod/0102eb/swblite1.html (in
japanese but the pictures speak for themselves) - I'm sure it would be
pretty easy to fit one onto an upright.

--- Derek

[Kloka-mo']

Perhaps you want to look at a King "SlapBass" made with stronger glue. :-)
Made just for standin' on.
http://www.kingdoublebass.com/mainmenu.html
--
-rob Slidell, LA

O>
/(\)
^^

Post by Boom
OK, barring anyone locally coming up with anything, I have made some
decisions about what I think I want.
Engelhardt ES-1 --- After looking around at different basses in the
$1000-2000 range, the Engelhardt seems like the only logical choice.
The Shen looks nice as well, but they are a bit more pricey than the
Engelhardt. And for jazz and rockabilly, I think it will do just
fine. I could probably make do with the rosewood neck and tailpiece
for $1000, but for an extra $300, ebony would be more indestructible.
One question, though: how come older Engelhardts sell for more than
new ones? Is there that much of a difference between older and newer
ones?
K&K Bass Master Rockabilly Plus. Thought about the Precision thing
along with a bridge pickup, but Tom Vee from Bobby Vee's band did that
on his old Kay and it sounds great but looks fairly sloppy. If there
is a dangling wire, I will find a way to pull it out. So I decided on
the Bass Master Rockabilly Plus because of the good things you guys
said about the K&K Bass Max, which it comes with, along with a small
transducer mic for under the neck. Going to use the preamp it comes
with for now.
I am assuming that the strings that come on Engelhardt basses are
pretty well unusable, since nobody ever said anything good about them,
so I have decided on Corelli Heavies or Extra Heavies to try out. I
also considered TI Spirocores since they're the jazz and rockabilly
standard, but after reading that Bob Gollihur uses the Corellis now, I
figured I'd give them a try.
Haven't decided. Found carbon fiber bows for $250 and Brazilwood bows
for $150. A couple people on here said to get carbon fiber, but to be
honest, I don't know the difference. I will probably get a German bow
since it seems to be the consensus that they're easier to use. Please
feel free to set me straight on the bow since I know nothing about
them.
I was also considering getting a bass bag for it, but I'm having
second thoughts about it. Considering that I plan on using a wireless
and doing cool rockabilly tricks like standing on it and playing it
behind my back, as well as renting it to acts I work with who do the
same, do I need to worry about dinging it up while it's in transit?
Also, how do most of you carry the bass in from the car to the gig?
Do you use those bass wheels? Do you use a cart? I have a few gigs
that are very long walks from the car to the stage, so I don't know if
I want to carry it but I don't want to spend $300 on carrying it
either.
I welcome all comments about my choices, good bad or indifferent. You
all have been a big help...thanks!

[Boom]

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 17:33:56 -0600, "Kloka-mo'"

Post by Kloka-mo'
Perhaps you want to look at a King "SlapBass" made with stronger glue. :-)
Made just for standin' on.
http://www.kingdoublebass.com/mainmenu.html

Nice basses, but too rich for my blood. Don't know how well bringing
a silver metal flake bass with pinstripes would go over at the jazz
gigs, but I'd be king of rockabilly and swing in this town with that
bass.

[Kloka-mo']

The slap kings are around 1500, and come in the nice blonde with black
binding. f'em jazz hounds if THAT'S too wild. :-)
--
-rob Slidell, LA

O>
/(\)
^^

Post by Boom
On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 17:33:56 -0600, "Kloka-mo'"

Post by Kloka-mo'
Perhaps you want to look at a King "SlapBass" made with stronger glue.
:-)
Made just for standin' on.
http://www.kingdoublebass.com/mainmenu.html

Nice basses, but too rich for my blood. Don't know how well bringing
a silver metal flake bass with pinstripes would go over at the jazz
gigs, but I'd be king of rockabilly and swing in this town with that
bass.

[Gary Rosen]

Post by Boom
Welp, when I told my wife I could add 2-3 gigs a month or more if I
bought an upright bass and learned a handful of jazz tunes, she gave
me the go-ahead to charge away our already maxed credit cards for an
upright. I could probably get away with a budget of $2000 for bass,
bow and pickup system, give or take $200. Ain't a lot, but it'll do.
So I'm looking to buy an acoustic upright instead of an EUB if I can
get away with it because I'm a man ( :P ), but I only have a midsize
car to haul it with. Can I fit at least a 3/4 size bass in a midsize
car? I want a full-size bass, but I would make do with 3/4 if it
won't fit. How do you guys with uprights and cars transport them?

I have used hatchback/small wagon type cars for years. My last three
cars:

Mazda station wagon
Geo Prizm hatchback
Pontiac Vibe

In all cases the rear seats can be folded down, and the neck of the
bass sticks between the two bucket seats in front.

- Gary Rosen

[MarcMars]

Boom-

3/4 is the standard size for a bass - both in symphony and
jazz.

You might talk to this cat:

Stephen Weiss <***@yahoo.com>

He was a straight up honest guy and has a lot of
experience behind him.

I got a solid Romanin bass from him I really like.
I also got a student bow, bag, and a Fishman pickup.
It also came with an adjustable bridge. I think all
told I gave $2500.

French bow is overhand, German is the meat fisted one.

I have tried a few pickups - (like the Golden Trinity)
but the Fishman is the most tolerable to me so far (I
aint done searching by a long shot). I recommend the
pre-amp or you will get a funky (bad) brittle sound.

I'm not sure how you will like a bass though an SM-500 - I
have one of those too and didn't like the upright through it.

Perhaps I didn't tweek long enough (an hour seemed plenty). I
also tried it through my Tweed Bassman (okay sound, not enough
power), a Roland DB500 (the single 12" didn't thrill me, but
it's gigable), and an SVT 2-Pro (nah).

At this point I am running the Fishman into the preamp into
a Polytone Maxi-Brute (4x10, 220 watts). This is the closest I've
come to reproducing the sound of the bass.

As for set up, I needed to get the fingerboard leveled - unless
you really know what you are doing, it's a job for a luthier.

Good luck! It is a great instrument - I'm guessing you'll have fun.
-Mark

Post by Boom
Welp, when I told my wife I could add 2-3 gigs a month or more if I
bought an upright bass and learned a handful of jazz tunes, she gave
me the go-ahead to charge away our already maxed credit cards for an
upright. I could probably get away with a budget of $2000 for bass,
bow and pickup system, give or take $200. Ain't a lot, but it'll do.
So I'm looking to buy an acoustic upright instead of an EUB if I can
get away with it because I'm a man ( :P ), but I only have a midsize
car to haul it with. Can I fit at least a 3/4 size bass in a midsize
car? I want a full-size bass, but I would make do with 3/4 if it
won't fit. How do you guys with uprights and cars transport them?

[John Shaughnessy]

Boom, I bought an upright a few years ago for the same reason. For years, I
had been losing gigs because I didn't have a "real bass". At one point, it
was pretty critical.

So I get one just in time for jazz/funk to get huge around here; everyone is
slappin' and poppin' on electric again. Then I join a smooth jazz band which
winds up working 5 nights a week.

Now that I've got my new electric, the players all love it's "Steve
Swallow" sound, so that's all I get called to play these days. Haven't done
an upright gig in months.

Can't win for trying.
--
Learning funk bass? visit www.js3jazz.com/store.htm

"I am quite sure now that often, very often, in matters concerning religion
and politics a man's reasoning powers are not above the monkey's."
- Mark Twain

Post by Boom
Welp, when I told my wife I could add 2-3 gigs a month or more if I
bought an upright bass and learned a handful of jazz tunes, she gave
me the go-ahead to charge away our already maxed credit cards for an
upright. I could probably get away with a budget of $2000 for bass,
bow and pickup system, give or take $200. Ain't a lot, but it'll do.
So I'm looking to buy an acoustic upright instead of an EUB if I can
get away with it because I'm a man ( :P ), but I only have a midsize
car to haul it with. Can I fit at least a 3/4 size bass in a midsize
car? I want a full-size bass, but I would make do with 3/4 if it
won't fit. How do you guys with uprights and cars transport them?